Finds from the Vine

Jarrett Osborn
April 23, 2008

Spain is known for its red wines, kind of like Italy without the Pinot Grigio. But in the rainy, slightly cooler northwest region of Galicia grows the Albarino grape, which produces a sunny, elegant and crisp white wine. The 2006 Martin Codax Albarino, from the Rias Baixas appellation, starts with aromas of lemon zest and light rose petals, followed by clean pear and lemon-lime flavors. The finish is minerally and zesty, with a hint of grapefruit, more lemon zest and white pepper. This wine is perfect with sauteed scallops, shrimp scampi and even crab legs. The Martin Codax Albarino is $16.

In 1986, a group of grape growers in the Rais Baixas formed Bodegas Martin Codax, named after a local 13th century minstrel whose works survive to this day. Log onto the Web site, www.martincodax.com, to hear his music. Usually I skip these intros, but this is nice, and the music can easily be turned off if lute playing from the 1200s is not to your liking. Enologist Luciano Amoedo is one of the founding members of the winery, and continues to oversee winemaking operations.